3D Printing

As the title says, this is the best tolerance test I've been able to produce since I first started printing a few years ago. There's stringing, but that would be solved if I dried it, yes I dry pla too. This print is the Sci3d Clearance Test as downloaded in January 2023, from 0.5mm to 0.15mm clearances.

I've been printing quite a few registration plates to hold parts in place in production that need to sit as flat as possible on the production jigs.

Okay, this is an update of my first method using regular paper to splice filaments that I posted last week. It was okay, but it did require cleaning the splice because some paper stuck to it.

Looks like Bambu is getting more enshittified. I am so glad I didn't let my recent frustration at my clumsiness with my Prusa steer me into Bambu-land.

Here's a method I've developed to splice filaments almost to perfection without any tools. It's basically the Teflon tube method for cheapskates who don't want to buy Teflon tubing 🙂

Today I printed another one of this box. It's made of two half-shells that are printed with the outer face down on the bed.

And more strangely, does it *suddenly* go bad?

My company ordered a 0.4mm ObXidian nozzle for our Prusa Mk4 printer. We ordered it because someone wanted to print something with abrasive carbon-fiber-reinforced filament.

I found a bunch of super-cheap kids sunglasses at the airport for my 3D-printed clip-on shades. No more concerns about UV damage 🙂

So, I redrew my custom shoe model in Blender because FreeCAD just can't create geometrically-correct, smooth, complex 3D surfaces like a shoe. This one looks much better

Here is my brand new (second hand) Elegoo Mars 3 printer.

This is the first true prototype of the camera grip. The incorporated magnet holds very well. Next step is figuring out the best way to install the shutter button so that it can be removed for battery replacement.

There's uselessly tiny gem fragments in them thar ancient alluvial gravel beds.

STEP/STL: https://www.printables.com/model/1045065-simple-cable-holder

I had new progressive lenses made, but the old ones are still fine and don’t have a scratch. They’re just a bit weak at near distance, but otherwise perfectly serviceable.

This started happening after I upgraded my ender 5 to ezBoard V2

Want a 3D printer in New York? Get ready for fingerprinting and a 15 day wait

Assembly Bill A8132 has been assigned a "Same As" bill in the Senate: S8586 [NYSenate.gov] [A8132 - 2023]

You can see where around corners and even some straight runs it is peeling up. I'm running first layer at an agonizing 15 mm/s. Using hatchbox pla filament, just dried in dehydrator. 200° nozzle and 70° bed. The glass is freshly cleaned with soap and water, I just did several atomic pulls, I've trammed at different heights using a feeler gauge, and absolutely nothing is working. Any one have any ideas?

This is a pretty neat tour of Prusa's printer factory on the Strange Parts channel

I've wanted one of these for a while, decided to bite the bullet a couple days ago! Seeing as I was somewhat familiar with CAD software (from engineering classes several years ago) it seemed fairly straightforward.

STEP/STL: https://www.printables.com/model/1045060-octagonal-dual-color-coaster-no-filament-change

I am new to 3D printing, but have always wanted to get into it. Unfortunately, I have very limited space and no dedicated area that I could call my workshop. I also travel frequently, and I would like something where I could take it with me for the day.

I've printed similar objects with a different colored PLA, but I ran out of it and switched to this.

Today we're ecstatic to publish our first demo showing a homemade BusKill Cable (in the prototype 3D-printed case) triggering a lockscreen.

First time I printed something made in FreeCAD. It's a table lamp for our balcony, more like a mood light than a real lamp hehe. Its made from 3 parts (base, tube and a hat). Base and tube are CA glued and I used some insulating tape to fit a hat tightly. The lamp is about 240 mm tall and its powered from 9V battery. Battery case and steel weight are glued with some blue tack (white tack lol) to hold it in the place. There are 2 LEDs and resistor soldered together in series. I might replace the leds with lower powered ones if battery goes out too fast, but time will tell. Im also thinking about different hats, but first iteration was quick and dirty, I love it!

I was printing PLA, it looks ok up to a certain height (although it was warping slightly), but then it becomes ugly. I will do a test print of the same height, butaybe you already have an idea.

3D prints still suffer from bad layer adhesion due to their 2.5D slicing and printing approach. I investigated if a novel slicing method that interleaves the layer could improve the strength of 3D prints.

What's the maximum layer height I can achieve on a consumer 3D Printer?

Awesome to see that Bambu and the X1 Plus devs are talking.